Todai-ji
The Nandaimon gate announces the scale before you even reach the main hall. Two 8-meter wooden guardian statues, carved by the master sculptor Unkei in 1203 from over 3,000 pieces of assembled cypress, stand in the gate's niches with veins bulging from their arms. Walk through and the Great Buddha Hall fills the end of a wide gravel courtyard. The building is 57 meters wide and 49 meters high. Inside, a 15-meter bronze Buddha cast in 752 AD sits cross-legged beneath the wooden rafters, surrounded by smaller attendant figures. Look for the pillar near the rear right with a rectangular hole at its base, sized to match the Buddha's nostril at roughly 35 by 30 centimeters. Squeezing through is said to grant enlightenment in your next life. The line on weekends can hit 20 minutes, but it moves quickly. Open daily 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Arrive before 8:30 AM and the courtyard will be nearly empty. By 10:00 AM, school groups flood in. Budget 30 to 45 minutes. Walk behind the main hall where few tourists venture for a quieter view of the compound.
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