Grote Markt

Start where the whole city converges. The Grote Markt is a wide, open square hemmed in by the town hall, terraces, and the colossal bulk of St. Bavo, and it is genuinely free and always open. The square was once called 't Sant, from the days before it was paved. Look for Loutje, the bronze statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, the printing pioneer Haarlem long claimed invented the craft. On Saturdays the square fills with a market, which is the best and worst time to be here: lively, but you will share every sightline. Grand Café Brinkmann on the north side has held this corner since 1881 and is a fine place to sit with a coffee and watch the tower throw its shadow across the cobbles. The terraces here are more expensive than the side streets, so treat this as your orientation point rather than your lunch stop. Get your bearings, note the tower, then head north up Barteljorisstraat.











