Plaza Independencia

Stand in the middle of this square and you straddle two Montevideos. Behind you, Avenida 18 de Julio runs east into the modern downtown. Ahead, the old town. The square sits exactly where the old Spanish citadel once stood, and at its centre rides José Artigas, the independence hero, on a bronze horse. It is a big, open, slightly windswept space ringed by the Palacio Estévez, the Torre Ejecutiva, the Teatro Solís and the Palacio Salvo, so you get a quick read on the whole city's architecture in one slow turn. Open 24/7, free, and the natural place to get your bearings before the streets narrow. If you happen to be here on the last Saturday of September, the Día del Patrimonio, museums around the plaza open free and a murga parade fills the square. The statue is your first stop, but what is under it is the second.












