Fort Zeelandia

Start where the whole city started. The fort sits low on the riverbank, brick walls facing the brown sweep of the Suriname River, with a statue of Queen Wilhelmina out front looking over the water. The English laid the first brick foundations around 1650; the Dutch took it in 1667 and renamed it Zeelandia after they chose to keep Suriname and its sugar instead of the colony that became New York. It later served as barracks and a prison. In 1982 fifteen government critics were tortured and shot inside these walls, the December murders, and Surinamers still talk about it. Since 1995 it has housed the Surinaams Museum, covering the colonial period, the country's many cultures and 20th-century art. Entry is SRD 25, open Tuesday to Friday 09:00 to 14:00 and Sunday 10:00 to 14:00, closed Saturday and Monday. Give it an hour. The courtyard has a cafe and a restaurant, Baka Foto, with an outdoor terrace. From the entrance, walk inland past the historic officers' houses and follow the riverside path north toward the palm garden.








