Plaza Vergara

Start in the middle of everything. Plaza Vergara sits where Avenida Libertad crosses over into Calle Valparaíso, and it is the spot every local means when they just say "la plaza." The bandstand, the old trees, and the horse carriages lined up along the edge give it away as the civic center. The carriages are a real thing here, not a costume act, though a loop will cost you and you should agree the price before you climb in. Spend ten minutes. Get your bearings: the theatre is on one corner, the avenues fan out, and the whole walk radiates from this point. It is open all the time and free, so there is no reason to rush it, but the plaza is a hub more than a sight. The morning is calmest before the shoppers fill Calle Valparaíso. To carry on, head north up Avenida Libertad, the wide avenue leaving the plaza, and walk the few blocks toward the palaces.










