Self-Guided Walking Tour in Palermo

A 6.4 km loop through Palermo's old town, 12 stops from the Norman Palace to Porta Nuova, taking in Arab-Norman mosaics, a Baroque crossroads, three street markets and Italy's biggest opera house. This page gives you the map, per-leg walking times, real prices and opening hours, and shorter versions.

12 Stops6.4 km~3 hours walking6–8 hours with stops
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Palermo Walking Tour at a Glance

This route is built for people who want to see the best of Palermo on foot and decide for themselves which interiors are worth their time. Every ticketed stop is optional: the outdoor line through the old town is the spine, and the churches, the palace, the opera house and the catacombs are add-ons you enter or skip as you please. You set the pace, linger where you want, and never wait on a group.

StartPalazzo dei Normanni
FinishPorta Nuova
Route typeA loop of about 6.4 km. It runs east along the Cassaro from the Norman Palace to Quattro Canti and Piazza Bellini, dips north into the Vucciria, climbs to Teatro Massimo, then swings back through the Capo and out west to the catacombs before closing at Porta Nuova, a few steps from where you began. No serious backtracking until the long western leg.
Realistic timePure walking is only about 90 minutes for the full loop, but with the interiors, the markets and lunch you should plan a full day of 6 to 8 hours. Outdoor-only, skipping every paid interior, you can do the circuit comfortably in about 3 hours.
DifficultyModerate. The 6.4 km is flat through the old town, but the surfaces are cobblestone, lava-stone slabs and broken pavement, often slick and uneven in the market lanes where fish ice and water pool. Closed, grippy shoes make the difference. The long western leg out to the catacombs is the only real distance.
Cost to followWalking the outdoor route costs nothing. Paid interiors, if you enter them all, run roughly €40 to €45 in tickets: €19 for the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel combo, €2.50 for San Cataldo, €2 for the Martorana, €9.50 for Teatro Massimo, €3 for the Capuchin Catacombs, plus a few euros for the cathedral's paid extras.
Best for:

Travellers who want dense, walkable sightseeing, love Arab-Norman art and street-market chaos, and prefer to move at their own speed rather than follow a group flag through the crowds.

The Route

Free Walking Tour Map of Palermo

12 stops6.4 kmabout 3 hours
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The 12 stops along this route

  1. Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo, stop 1 on the self-guided walking tour
    1Palazzo dei Normanni
  2. Cappella Palatina in Palermo, stop 2 on the self-guided walking tour
    2Cappella Palatina
  3. Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo) in Palermo, stop 3 on the self-guided walking tour
    3Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo)
  4. Quattro Canti in Palermo, stop 4 on the self-guided walking tour
    4Quattro Canti
  5. Chiesa di San Cataldo in Palermo, stop 5 on the self-guided walking tour
    5Chiesa di San Cataldo
  6. Church of the Martorana in Palermo, stop 6 on the self-guided walking tour
    6Church of the Martorana
  7. Fontana Pretoria in Palermo, stop 7 on the self-guided walking tour
    7Fontana Pretoria
  8. Vucciria Market (Vucciria) in Palermo, stop 8 on the self-guided walking tour
    8Vucciria Market (Vucciria)
  9. Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele in Palermo, stop 9 on the self-guided walking tour
    9Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele
  10. Capo Market in Palermo, stop 10 on the self-guided walking tour
    10Capo Market
  11. Catacombe dei Cappuccini in Palermo, stop 11 on the self-guided walking tour
    11Catacombe dei Cappuccini
  12. Porta Nuova in Palermo, stop 12 on the self-guided walking tour
    12Porta Nuova
  13. That's the complete route.

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Your Palermo Walking Tour, Stop by Stop

  1. 1

    Palazzo dei Normanni

    Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo, stop 1 on the self-guided walking tour

    Start here, on Piazza Indipendenza at the western edge of the old town, where the honey-colored bulk of the palace anchors the whole walk. This is the oldest royal residence in Europe, seat of Roger II's Norman kings and later of Frederick II, and today it houses the Sicilian regional parliament. The tourist entrance is on Piazza del Parlamento. Standard ticket is €19 and covers the royal apartments and the Palatine Chapel inside; hours run Mon to Sat 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, Sunday only until 1:00 PM. The Sala dei Venti and the Sala di Re Ruggero with its hunting mosaics are worth the walk upstairs, but be aware the apartments close to visitors on parliament session days, so the chapel is the guaranteed draw. Buy your ticket once and walk straight to the chapel next.

    Hours
    Mon-Sat: 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM | Sun: 8:30 AM – 1:00 PM
    Price
    €19
  2. 2

    Cappella Palatina

    Cappella Palatina in Palermo, stop 2 on the self-guided walking tour

    Step through the courtyard and into the chapel and the temperature of the room changes. Every surface above eye level burns gold. Consecrated in 1140 under Roger II, this is the single best thing in Palermo and arguably the finest Norman interior anywhere: Byzantine mosaics of Christ Pantocrator overhead, a painted wooden muqarnas ceiling carved by Fatimid craftsmen, Arabic, Greek and Latin all in one room. It is part of the UNESCO Arab-Norman serial site. If you only bought the chapel ticket separately it is €15.50, but the €19 palace combo is the smarter buy. Go early; tour groups flood in by mid-morning and the space is small. Photography is allowed without flash. Give it 20 to 30 minutes and actually look up. Hours match the palace, with Sunday closing earlier at 12:30 PM.

    Hours
    Mon-Sat: 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM | Sun: 8:30 AM – 12:30 PM
    Price
    €15.50
  3. 3

    Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo)

    Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo) in Palermo, stop 3 on the self-guided walking tour

    Leave the palace and walk east down the Cassaro and the cathedral rises on your left behind a wall of palms. It is gloriously confused: Norman base, Gothic porches, Catalan arches, an 18th-century dome, even Arabic verse carved into one column from its days as a mosque. Entry to the main church is free, daily 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM, and that alone is worth ten minutes. The paid extras, the royal tombs of Roger II and Frederick II, the treasury, and the rooftop terraces, cost a few euros each and the roof is the one to pick for the view back over the old town. Skip the crypt unless you love sarcophagi. Outside, the long flank facing the garden is the photo most people miss. Continue east on the Cassaro.

    Hours
    Daily: 7:00 AM – 7:00 PM
    Price
    Free
  4. 4

    Quattro Canti

    Quattro Canti in Palermo, stop 4 on the self-guided walking tour

    Keep going and the street suddenly opens into an octagon of curved Baroque facades: this is Quattro Canti, the exact crossroads where the Cassaro meets Via Maqueda and the four historic quarters touch corners. Built in the early 1600s, each concave face stacks a fountain, a Spanish king and a patron saint of one quarter. It is open and free, a junction rather than a destination, so you do not stop long, but stand in the dead center of the crossing and turn a slow circle. The light hits a different facade through the day, which is why locals call it the Theatre of the Sun. Traffic still runs through it, so watch the scooters. From here Piazza Pretoria and the fountain are 30 seconds south, and Piazza Bellini with its two churches sits just behind.

    Hours
    Open 24/7
    Price
    Free
  5. 5

    Chiesa di San Cataldo

    Chiesa di San Cataldo in Palermo, stop 5 on the self-guided walking tour

    Duck around to Piazza Bellini and the three bald red domes catch your eye instantly. This is San Cataldo, a small 12th-century Norman church that has never been plastered over, so the inside is bare honey-colored stone with a cosmatesque floor and almost no decoration. The austerity is the point; after the gold overload of the Palatine Chapel it feels like a held breath. Entry is €2.50, open daily 10:00 AM to 1:30 PM and 2:00 to 6:00 PM. Ten minutes is plenty inside. The real reason most people stop is the exterior: those domes and the blind arcades are the most photographed Arab-Norman silhouette in the city. Shoot them from the raised terrace of the piazza with the Martorana bell tower beside them. The Martorana entrance is literally the next door along.

    Hours
    Daily: 10:00 AM – 1:30 PM, 2:00 – 6:00 PM
    Price
    €2.50
  6. 6

    Church of the Martorana

    Church of the Martorana in Palermo, stop 6 on the self-guided walking tour

    One door over from San Cataldo, behind a plain facade, is the Martorana, and inside it is the opposite of plain. The 12th-century core is lined with Byzantine gold mosaics as fine as the Palatine Chapel's, including a famous panel of Christ crowning Roger II. It is still an active church of the Italo-Albanian rite, so services take priority and dress is enforced: cover shoulders and knees. Entry is €2, open Mon to Sat 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM, and closed on Sundays, so this is a morning stop or you miss it. Give it 15 minutes. The contrast of San Cataldo's bare stone and this blaze of gold, side by side on one square, is one of the best 25-minute pairings in Palermo. From Piazza Bellini, walk the short block north to Piazza Pretoria.

  7. 7

    Fontana Pretoria

    Fontana Pretoria in Palermo, stop 7 on the self-guided walking tour

    Round the corner into Piazza Pretoria and a wedding-cake of white marble fills the square: tiers of basins, river gods, and dozens of frankly naked nymphs and monsters. Carved in Florence in 1554 by Francesco Camilliani and sold to Palermo's senate in 1581, it cost so much that scandalized locals nicknamed it the Fountain of Shame. Vasari called it a fountain without equal in Italy. It sits open and free, ringed by railings, with the city hall and two churches as a backdrop. You look, you photograph, you do not pay or queue. Late afternoon light turns the marble warm gold and the crowds thin. From here the route swings north: cut back to the Cassaro and head down toward Via Roma and the lanes of the Vucciria, where the mood changes completely.

    Hours
    Open 24/7
    Price
    Free
  8. 8

    Vucciria Market (Vucciria)

    Vucciria Market (Vucciria) in Palermo, stop 8 on the self-guided walking tour

    The noise reaches you before the stalls do. The Vucciria is Palermo's most storied market, a knot of lanes around Piazza Caracciolo where fishmongers shout, swordfish heads sit on ice, and grills smoke with panelle and stigghiola. By day it runs Mon to Sat roughly 8:00 AM to 2:00 PM and food stalls are cheap and excellent: a pane ca meusa (spleen sandwich) or a panelle roll runs around €2 to €3, a paper cone of fried seafood a few euros more. Entry is free, obviously. The market has shrunk over the years and feels half-asleep in the early afternoon, then flips into a rowdy open-air bar scene at night around Piazza Garraffello. Go for lunch hungry. Watch your bag in the crush, keep cash in a front pocket, and do not film vendors without a nod. Climb back up toward Via Maqueda for Teatro Massimo.

    Hours
    Mon-Sat: 8:00 AM – 2:00 PM | Sun: Closed
    Price
    Free
  9. 9

    Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele

    Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele in Palermo, stop 9 on the self-guided walking tour

    Via Maqueda opens out and the great neoclassical portico of Teatro Massimo dominates its own square, lions flanking the steps. Opened in 1897, it is the largest opera house in Italy and the third largest in Europe, and yes, this is where the climax of The Godfather Part III was filmed on those very steps. The guided interior tour is €9.50, running daily roughly 9:30 AM to 3:30 PM in several languages, and it is genuinely worth it: the auditorium, the royal box, and the echo room are the highlights, about 30 minutes. If you would rather not pay, the broad steps are a fine spot to sit, eat a granita, and watch the city. Check the season schedule too; a cheap upper-tier opera or ballet ticket is one of the best-value nights in Palermo. Then head back south toward the Capo.

    Hours
    Daily: 9:30 AM – 3:30 PM
    Price
    €9.50
  10. 10

    Capo Market

    Capo Market in Palermo, stop 10 on the self-guided walking tour

    Slip off the wide avenues into the Capo and you are suddenly in a covered tunnel of awnings, the most Arab-feeling of Palermo's markets and the least touristy of the three. The lanes wind behind the cathedral with fruit pyramids, butchers, spice and olive stalls, and a handful of street-food spots locals actually use. It runs long hours, Mon to Sat 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM and Sunday mornings until 1:00 PM, and entry is free. Come here for the everyday grind rather than the show: this is where Palermo shops, not where it performs. Try a freshly fried panelle or a bag of olives for pocket change. The lanes are narrow, uneven, and easy to lose yourself in, which is the fun. Aim southwest and you spill out near the cathedral and the long road west to the catacombs.

  11. 11

    Catacombe dei Cappuccini

    Catacombe dei Cappuccini in Palermo, stop 11 on the self-guided walking tour

    This is the long leg, about 2 km west of the center, and it is the strangest thing you will see in Sicily. Beneath the Capuchin convent, corridors are lined with roughly 8,000 mummified bodies, monks, professionals, children, hung on the walls in their best clothes from the 16th century onward. The most famous resident is Rosalia Lombardo, a two-year-old preserved so well in 1920 she is called the Sleeping Beauty. Entry is €3, open daily 9:00 AM to 12:10 PM and 3:00 to 5:10 PM, so mind the long lunch closure. No photography is allowed, and it is not for the squeamish or for small kids. It takes 30 to 40 minutes. If the walk feels far, the 327 bus or a short taxi covers it. Walk back east toward the palace and Porta Nuova to close the loop.

    Hours
    Daily: 9:00 AM – 12:10 PM, 3:00 – 5:10 PM
    Price
    €3
  12. 12

    Porta Nuova

    Porta Nuova in Palermo, stop 12 on the self-guided walking tour

    The loop closes where Palermo's grand land entrance has stood for centuries: Porta Nuova, the triumphal gate built against the Norman Palace to mark Charles V's return from Tunis. The four telamons, the Moors carved into its base, commemorate that victory, and the pyramid roof clad in maiolica tiles is the detail to look up for. It frames the very start of the Cassaro, so you are standing at the spot where the long straight street you walked all day begins. It is open and free, traffic running through its arch. Stand on the city side at sunset and the gate and the palace glow together, the best closing photograph of the route. From here it is a few steps back to the Norman Palace and Piazza Indipendenza, and your loop is complete.

    Hours
    Open 24/7
    Price
    Free

How Long Does This Walking Tour Really Take?

Walking time alone is about 90 minutes across the 6.4 km, so the clock is set entirely by how many interiors you enter. Outdoor stops and photos add maybe two hours; the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel together need a solid hour, the catacombs another hour with the long walk out, and a proper market lunch eats an hour more. Done fully, it is a rewarding full day of 6 to 8 hours.

Walking time is only about 90 minutes for the full 6.4 km loop, but nobody should rush this. With the interiors, the markets and a proper lunch, plan for a full day, 6 to 8 hours. The Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel together need a solid hour, the catacombs another hour with the long walk out, and the two Piazza Bellini churches plus the fountain a relaxed 45 minutes combined.

The natural break is the Vucciria or the Capo at lunch: grab panelle and a beer and eat standing among the stalls. For a sit-down pause, the steps and cafes around Teatro Massimo are the obvious spot, or stop at one of the bars on Piazza Pretoria for a granita with the fountain in front of you. If the catacombs walk feels too long after a full morning, do the loop in two halves with an afternoon coffee break, or take the bus one way and walk back.

Full Route, Shorter Walk or Two-Day Version?

The full loop is a whole day, but the route breaks cleanly into shorter versions. The first eight stops are packed tight in the historic core; the last four spread west and add most of the walking. Pick the version that fits your time and energy, and treat every interior as optional.

Full loop

The complete 12-stop circuit

Stops 1 to 12, Norman Palace to Porta Nuova, about 6.4 km and a full day of 6 to 8 hours with interiors and lunch

The whole thing: Arab-Norman interiors early while you have patience for ticket lines, then Quattro Canti, Piazza Bellini, the Vucciria, Teatro Massimo, the Capo, the catacombs out west, and Porta Nuova to close. Best done from the 8:30 AM opening so the catacombs land before the 12:10 lunch shutdown or after 3 PM.

Half-day core

Old town without the western legs

Stops 1 to 9, Norman Palace to Teatro Massimo, about 3.5 km in roughly 3 to 4 hours

Cuts the two longest legs, the 1.7 km out to the Capuchin Catacombs and the 1.3 km back to Porta Nuova, which together add over 3 km and 38 minutes of walking for two stops. You keep every mosaic, the Fountain of Shame, the Vucciria and the opera house, and finish at Teatro Massimo instead of looping back. Ideal for half a day or if the catacombs do not appeal.

Two-day split

Mosaics one day, markets and catacombs the next

Day one stops 1 to 7 (palace to Fontana Pretoria); day two stops 8 to 12 (Vucciria to Porta Nuova)

Splits at the Fountain of Shame. Day one is the UNESCO Arab-Norman heart: the palace, the Palatine Chapel, the cathedral, Quattro Canti, San Cataldo, the Martorana and the fountain, all within a few hundred metres. Day two is the sensory half: the Vucciria for lunch, Teatro Massimo, the Capo, the strange catacombs and the closing gate. Gentler if you want to enter everything without fresco-neck.

You can walk it in reverse, starting at Porta Nuova and ending at the Norman Palace, but the given direction is better: you reach the Palatine Chapel and Martorana early, before tour groups flood them around 10 AM and before the Martorana's 1 PM closing, and you save the markets and catacombs for the afternoon when you want sensory overload rather than mosaics.

Is This Palermo Walking Tour Right for You?

This route suits some travellers far better than others. The distances are short in the core but the surfaces are rough and the two western legs are long, so read the fit before you commit to the full loop.

A good fit if you…

  • Walkers happy with 6.4 km on cobblestone and broken pavement across a full day
  • Anyone drawn to Arab-Norman art: the Palatine Chapel and Martorana are the payoff
  • Street-food and market lovers who want the Vucciria and Capo at their liveliest before the 2 PM close
  • Independent travellers who want to set their own pace and skip any interior on a whim

Adapt the route if you…

  • You have only half a day: stop at Teatro Massimo (stop 9) and skip the 3 km of western legs
  • You are squeamish or travelling with small children: the Capuchin Catacombs, with roughly 8,000 mummies, are not for everyone, so cut stop 11
  • You visit on a Sunday: the Martorana is closed, so shift it or accept the miss, and the Norman Palace closes early at 1 PM
  • The long catacombs leg feels too far after a full morning: take the 327 bus or a short taxi one way and walk back

Tickets & Skip-the-Line in Palermo

Most of Palermo's paid interiors are cheap and rarely need advance booking, but the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel draw tour groups from mid-morning, so arriving at the 8:30 AM opening matters more than any queue-jump ticket. Here is the ticket and hours guidance stop by stop, from the facts pack.

Palazzo dei Normanni€19 standard ticket, which also covers the Palatine Chapel inside. Open Mon to Sat 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, Sunday only to 1:00 PM. The royal apartments can close on parliament session days, so the chapel is the guaranteed draw. Buy once at Piazza del Parlamento and go straight to the chapel. official ticket site ↗
Cappella Palatina€15.50 if bought as a chapel-only ticket, but the €19 palace combo is the smarter buy since it includes both. Open Mon to Sat 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM, Sunday to 12:30 PM. Go early: the small space fills with groups by mid-morning. official ticket site ↗
Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo)The main church is free, open daily 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM. The paid extras (royal tombs, treasury, rooftop terraces) cost a few euros each and are bought on site; the roof is the one worth picking for the view. official ticket site ↗
Chiesa di San Cataldo€2.50 entry, open daily 10:00 AM to 1:30 PM and 2:00 to 6:00 PM. Paid on the spot, no advance booking needed. Ten minutes inside is plenty.
Church of the Martorana€2 entry, open Mon to Sat 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM, closed Sundays, so this is a morning-only stop. Still an active church of the Italo-Albanian rite: cover shoulders and knees, and services take priority. official ticket site ↗
Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele€9.50 for the guided interior tour, running daily roughly 9:30 AM to 3:30 PM in several languages, about 30 minutes. Bought on site. Check the season schedule too: a cheap upper-tier opera or ballet ticket is excellent value. official ticket site ↗
Catacombe dei Cappuccini€3 entry, open daily 9:00 AM to 12:10 PM and 3:00 to 5:10 PM, so mind the long lunch closure. Paid at the door, no advance ticket needed. No photography allowed, and not for the squeamish or small children.
Everything elseQuattro Canti, Fontana Pretoria, the Vucciria Market, the Capo Market and Porta Nuova are all free open spaces with nothing to book. The markets run Mon to Sat mornings (the Capo also Sunday morning); the squares and the gate are open 24/7.
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Tips for Walking in Palermo

  • Timing: Start at the Norman Palace by 8:30 AM when it opens to get the Palatine Chapel before the tour groups. The Martorana closes Sundays and only opens 10 AM to 1 PM, and the Capuchin Catacombs shut for lunch from 12:10 to 3:00 PM, so plan the catacombs for either the morning slot or after 3 PM.
  • Shoes: The old town is cobblestone, lava-stone slab and broken pavement, often slick and uneven in the markets where water and fish ice pool on the ground. Wear closed, grippy shoes, not sandals, and watch your footing in the Vucciria and Capo lanes.
  • Restrooms: Public toilets are scarce. Use the facilities inside the Norman Palace after buying your ticket, and at Teatro Massimo if you take the tour. Otherwise buy a coffee at a bar near Quattro Canti or Piazza Pretoria and use theirs.
  • Food: Eat street food in the markets, not in a sit-down restaurant. A pane ca meusa or panelle roll in the Vucciria runs €2 to €3, and a Sicilian granita with brioche from a bar near Teatro Massimo is the perfect mid-walk fuel. Carry small cash; stalls do not take cards.
  • Photo: For the classic Arab-Norman shot, stand on the raised terrace of Piazza Bellini facing San Cataldo's three red domes with the Martorana tower beside them. Late afternoon light is best. For the closing shot, face Porta Nuova from the city side at sunset.

Why Walk This Route?

Palermo rewards walkers more than almost any city in Italy, because the things you came to see sit on top of each other. The whole historic core is a tight grid built around two streets that cross at right angles: the Cassaro (Via Vittorio Emanuele) and Via Maqueda. Walk those two and their side lanes and you hit Arab-Norman mosaics, a Baroque crossroads, three roaring street markets, and the largest opera house in Italy without ever needing a bus. The distances are short. The reward-per-step ratio is absurd.

This route is a loop, roughly 6.4 km, that starts and ends at the Norman Palace on the western edge. It runs you east along the Cassaro to Quattro Canti and Piazza Bellini, dips into the Vucciria market, climbs north to Teatro Massimo, then drops back through the Capo market and out to the Capuchin Catacombs before closing at Porta Nuova. Doing it in this order means you see the UNESCO interiors early while you have energy and patience for ticket lines, and you save the markets and the strange, unforgettable catacombs for when you want sensory overload rather than fresco-neck.

Wandering Palermo blind is fun but expensive in wasted time. The center is scruffy, signage is poor, and half the great churches look like nothing from the street. Following a fixed line means you walk past the ordinary doorway that hides a ceiling of gold instead of strolling right past it. That is the case for doing this as a route rather than a meander.

Common Questions

Is Palermo safe to walk around?

The historic center on this route is safe to walk by day and busy into the evening, especially around Teatro Massimo, Quattro Canti and the markets at night. Petty theft is the real risk, not violence: pickpockets work the crowded market lanes of the Vucciria and Capo, so keep cash in a front pocket and your bag zipped and in front of you. Scooters ride fast through the lanes, including Quattro Canti, so watch the road. Avoid flashing phones in the dense crowds, and the long walk out to the catacombs passes through plain, ungentrified streets that feel quiet but are fine in daylight.

What if it rains during my Palermo tour?

This route has good indoor cover. Spend longer in the Palatine Chapel and Norman Palace apartments, take the full Teatro Massimo tour, and the Capuchin Catacombs are entirely underground. The cathedral, the Martorana and San Cataldo are all quick indoor stops too. The Capo market is largely covered by awnings and stays workable in a shower. The open squares, the Fountain of Shame, Quattro Canti and Porta Nuova, are the only fully exposed stops, and you can pass them quickly between churches. Palermo rain is usually short, so a cheap umbrella from a street vendor and a granita-and-cathedral pause will see it through.

What's the best time of day for this walking tour?

Start at 8:30 AM. The Palatine Chapel is calm and cool before the tour buses arrive around 10, the markets are at their liveliest before the 2 PM close, and you reach the catacombs either before the 12:10 lunch shutdown or after 3 PM. Mornings also mean the Martorana is open, which it is not on Sunday afternoons. The reward for an early start is the late afternoon: by then you can sit on the Teatro Massimo steps or by the Fountain of Shame with a granita as the marble turns gold, and finish at Porta Nuova for the sunset shot.

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